Step inside this chic, contemporary restaurant, and you can see for yourself just how crazy the local authority's draconian diktat is.

Number 8 offers a sumptuous setting for classic British dining in the 21st century. It's the sort of elegant eatery establishment the town has been crying out for. And the quality of fine food and wines matches the celebrated surroundings.

Although we ventured out on a usually quiet Monday night, Number 8 was well patronised, offering a lively yet intimate atmosphere.

From the very moment we set foot in the building, we were attended to by courteous and efficient staff, never overbearing but always on hand when required.

Seated on the first floor, we had a lovely view of Selby Park, bathed in summer floral shades. But it was the menu that soon had our full attention!

What immediately strikes you is the simplicity of the dishes. This is a big step up from pub grub, but not as intimidating as fine dining. The best of British is on offer, from char-grilled rib-eye steaks to roast duck and new season lamb.

I plumped for the hock of ham terrine with a Cumberland sauce, served with rustic bread, for my starter, while my wife was tempted by the salmon fishcakes with a mango chilli salsa.

Both dishes were clean and well presented, although my Cumberland sauce was a little thick and sticky rather than fluid and sharp.

Dispatched with wide-eyed enjoyment, we were on to the main course. Although I was tempted by the 10oz steak, complete with fried egg and black pudding, I eventually selected the roast rump of new season lamb, served with garlic cabbage and port red wine gravy. My wife sampled the vegetarian option of roasted butternut squash, wild mushroom and spinach with a creamed fettucini pasta. My meal was also served with market vegetables and new potatoes.

This particular cut of lamb is a beast to cook well, which was why I selected it. Get this right, and it's hats off to the chef. And I was soon doffing my cap in the direction of the kitchen! Nicely browned on the outside, the lamb was pink and tender inside. The garlic cabbage offered a good contrast to the meat, while the gravy added a certain richness to the meal. If there was one small criticism, it was the vegetables were quite bland.

As for my wife's meal, there was little to fault here. So often vegetarian dishes can be dull and lacking in thought, but this was rich and moreish. The butternut squash, a real favourite for both of us, was tender and extremely sweet.

By this stage I was comfortably full, and the dessert list simply wasn't an option. But my wife had eaten tactically (as always), and her eyes were soon scouring the tempting treats on offer. In the end she opted for a simple ice cream dish with hot chocolate sauce. Being a gallant sort of chap, I obviously helped her polish off the lot between sips of freshly ground coffee.

I can't say I was exactly surprised by just how good Number 8 was, as I had heard so many good things about it from friends who had dined there. It was a shame after spending so much time and attention beautifully fitting out the restaurant that the owner chose to use paper napkins and packets of sugar. It's those little touches that can make a god dining experience great, but to dwell on these would be more than churlish.

Number 8 offers fantastic food in a lovely setting … the best of British with a modern twist. I would happily recommend it, particularly with such fabulous lunchtime special offers.

* Our bill came to a very reasonable £52, including several drinks and a charming glass of house red (a Chilean Cabernet Sauvignon). Call 01757 291188 to book, or log-on to www.number8restaurant.co.uk for further information.